Window replacement, measured for the house you actually have.
When a window's problem is the frame itself — failed seals, rot, a unit that was never installed square — repair isn't the honest answer. We replace one window or a whole house, vinyl or wood-clad, measured on site before anything is ordered.
If more than one of these sounds familiar, replacement is usually the cheaper answer long-term.
- —Windows feel cold to stand near, even with the heat on
- —Condensation or fog between the panes — the seal has failed
- —Sashes are painted shut, won't stay up, or are hard to operate
- —Visible rot or soft spots in the frame or sill
- —Your energy bill jumped and nothing else in the house changed
Only one or two? It might be a seal or balance issue — worth checking repair first, or read our full window repair diagnosis guide.
What we install
Double-hung
The default for most homes — both sashes move, tilts in for cleaning from inside.
More on double-hung →Casement
Crank-out, seals tighter than double-hung when closed. Good over sinks and counters.
More on casement →Bay & bow
Multi-panel projection — adds floor space and light. More structural planning up front.
More on bay & bow →Egress
Code-sized for basement bedrooms. We check the opening against code before quoting, not after.
More on egress →What it's made of matters as much as the style
We install all four. What's right for one opening on your house isn't always right for another.
Vinyl
The most common choice in this area, and usually the best value — low maintenance, good insulation, no painting.
More on vinyl windows →Wood-clad
Wood on the inside for a traditional look, a low-maintenance exterior cladding facing the weather.
More on wood-clad windows →Fiberglass
Holds paint well, resists warping better than vinyl in temperature swings, narrower frame profile.
More on fiberglass windows →Aluminum
Slim sightlines and real strength for larger openings, but conducts more cold unless thermally broken.
More on aluminum windows →What usually goes where
Every house is different, but the room usually points to the window type and, on a few rooms, to a code question worth settling before we quote.
Kitchen
Casement or double-hung, usually above the sink or counter
A crank-out casement means you're not reaching over a full sink to pull a sash down. Grease and steam near the stove also mean we pay closer attention to the caulk line so it doesn't fail early.
Basement
Egress, hopper, or slider, depending on how the space is used
If the room is used for sleeping, code requires an egress window: a minimum opening size you could climb out of. That often means cutting a larger opening and adding a window well. A storage or utility basement usually just needs the existing hopper or slider swapped, no code trigger involved. We check which situation applies before quoting either one.
Bedroom
Double-hung or casement, sized to meet egress code
Any window in a room used for sleeping has to meet the same minimum clear opening as a basement egress window. Casement units often open wider for the same rough opening, which matters if the frame is already tight against code.
Living or family room
Picture windows, or bay and bow units
This is where bay and bow windows show up most, plus large fixed picture windows. Bigger units mean more structural planning up front, since the header above the opening may need to be resized to carry the load.
Bathroom
Awning or hopper, often with obscure glass
Privacy is the driver here: frosted or obscure glass, usually a smaller unit that vents from the top without giving a clear sightline in. Humidity means frame material and sealant matter more in a bathroom than almost anywhere else.
Sunroom or three-season room
A run of sliding or casement units across one wall
Less about one opening, more about matching a whole run of windows so the sightlines and reveals line up across the wall. We measure the full run together, not one unit at a time.
Basement bedroom or full egress dig-out? We cover that in more depth in our basement window guide.
Two ways to replace a window
We decide which one applies during the on-site measurement, not before.
Insert replacement
The new window fits inside the existing frame, which stays in place. Faster, less invasive, keeps the existing interior and exterior trim intact. Works when the old frame is still square and structurally sound.
Full-frame replacement
Everything comes out, including the old frame, down to the rough opening in the wall. Needed when there's rot, when the size or style is changing, or on older construction where there's no modern frame left to insert into.
What's actually in the glass
Most of a window's performance comes from the glass package, not the frame around it. These are the options worth understanding before you compare two quotes.
Low-E coating
A microscopically thin coating that reflects heat back where it came from, keeping warmth inside in winter and solar gain outside in summer. Standard on what we install, not an upsell line.
Argon or krypton gas fill
Denser than air, so it slows heat moving across the gap between panes. Argon is the normal choice; krypton performs better in the narrower gaps of triple-pane units.
Grilles and grids
Between the glass for easy cleaning, or applied for a more traditional look. Pattern and bar width can be matched to the windows you're keeping.
Obscure and tempered glass
Frosted or patterned glass for bathrooms, and tempered safety glass wherever code requires it, near doors, tubs, stairs, and low sills.
More on what a gas fill does, and what happens when one fails, in our explainer on gas-filled panes.
A replacement quote from us covers the whole job, not just the window
Removal and disposal of the old units
The old windows leave with us. That includes the sashes, the frames on a full-frame job, and the packaging the new units arrive in.
Insulating and sealing the opening
The gap between a new unit and the rough opening gets insulated and sealed rather than stuffed and covered. This is the step that quietly decides whether the new window actually performs like the label says it will.
Interior and exterior trim
Exterior capping or trim to shed water, and interior trim finished to match what's already in the room. On insert jobs we work to keep the existing interior casing intact.
Caulk lines you'd look at twice
Customers bring this up in reviews unprompted, which is a strange thing to be known for and also exactly the point.
Cleanup and a walkthrough
Every window opened, closed, locked, and tilted with you there before we call the job done.
We don't post prices — here's why
Two houses with "the same" window can price differently depending on the opening, the trim work, and whether the old unit comes out clean. A number without a measurement isn't a real quote — it's a guess with a phone number attached.
We measure on site, first — that quote is free, in Lancaster County, PA, no obligation attached. A written quote is good for 30 days.
Window replacement, frequently asked
How much does window replacement cost?
It depends on the material, the size and number of openings, insert versus full-frame work, and whether the crew finds rot once the old unit is out. We break down what actually moves the price in our window cost guide on the blog — the honest answer is we measure first and give you a real written number, not a phone estimate.
How long does a typical window replacement take?
A single insert replacement is usually a few hours. A full-house job runs anywhere from one to several days depending on how many openings and whether any of them need full-frame work. We give you a real timeline once we've measured, not before.
Do I need a permit to replace windows?
Sometimes, depending on the township and whether the opening size is changing. We handle this as part of the job rather than leaving it for you to sort out.
What's the difference between insert and full-frame replacement?
Insert replacement fits a new window inside your existing frame, which stays in place — faster and less invasive. Full-frame replacement removes everything down to the rough opening, which is what rot, a size change, or older construction usually requires. We decide which one applies during the on-site measurement.
Can you match the style of my existing windows?
In most cases, yes — grille pattern, frame color, and glass tint can all be matched or coordinated, especially useful when you're replacing a few windows now and the rest later.
Do you install energy-efficient, Low-E windows?
Yes, Low-E coatings and gas-filled insulated glass are standard options on the units we install, not an upcharge add-on. We can walk you through what that actually changes about comfort and your energy bill.